1950s Unmarked Soprano Ukulele
This no-frills, ply-mahogany-bodied ukulele sure is a brain teaser. I would expect an instrument like this to have been made later -- say in the 60s or 70s -- except that its original US-made bakelite tuner pegs, case, and the remains of an instruction sheet are clearly carry-overs from the late 40s or early 50s. Because it has some similarities to later United (out of New Jersey) baritone ukes in the construction, I have this feeling that it may have been made by that firm.
Whatever its origins, it's actually quite a great-sounding little box with a vaguely-Hawaiian tone (think Kamaka-ish) which is, I think, due mostly to its extra-lightweight build and bracing. Because the body is ply-mahogany instead of solid, the maker kept the thickness very thin and so the soundboard engages efficiently. The neck is also wider side-to-side and has a super-thin flattened D-shape front-to-back -- both elements that recall 1930s Hawaiian-style ukes more than mainland fare.
My work on it included a neck reset, fret level/dress, replacement fret saddle (relocated to a correct location), and general setup. It plays on-the-dot with 1/16" action at the 12th fret and is strung with a set of Martin fluorocarbon strings.
Whatever its origins, it's actually quite a great-sounding little box with a vaguely-Hawaiian tone (think Kamaka-ish) which is, I think, due mostly to its extra-lightweight build and bracing. Because the body is ply-mahogany instead of solid, the maker kept the thickness very thin and so the soundboard engages efficiently. The neck is also wider side-to-side and has a super-thin flattened D-shape front-to-back -- both elements that recall 1930s Hawaiian-style ukes more than mainland fare.
My work on it included a neck reset, fret level/dress, replacement fret saddle (relocated to a correct location), and general setup. It plays on-the-dot with 1/16" action at the 12th fret and is strung with a set of Martin fluorocarbon strings.
The neck is solid mahogany and I had to finagle the area at the nut and headstock to get the nut adjusted correctly. The maker left a flat space behind the nut which threw-off back-tension on the nut from the tuners. You can't see them, but I actually dug little grooves behind the nut in the exact path of the strings from the tuners. This lets them get a little cleaner back-angle on the nut and cleans-up the tone.
You also can't see them, here, but I did add three side dots at 3, 5, and 7.
The original saddle was 1/16" off the mark so I cut a new slot and put in a fret saddle where it should be.
The neck on this used a doweled joint and so, when I reset the neck, I also countersunk a screw into the heel to grab the neck block. Dowels always fail at the bottom of the heel and this makes it ship-shape for the rest of its life.
The canvas case dates it somewhere from the late 40s into the mid 50s.
Comments
Thanks as always for such cool photos and commentary, Jake!