Reproduction Tiple Bridge & Bridge Woes

In the rare case that I have to fabricate a new instrument part I like to get it close to the original. A lot of tiples have substantial top damage when their bridges rip off but fortunately the tiple that this bridge is going to does not. In the case of unstable sections of the top, my suggestion would be to fill them, patch them, and install a mandolin-style movable bridge with a tailpiece.

Like I said, though, this one was fortunate enough to have a decent enough break that I can glue a new pull-tension (ala pin bridges or ones with the strings attached in the belly like this) bridge on which will retain that more of that "guitarish" tiple sound and look period. I've made this new bridge on the foot pattern that was left on the top of the tiple and with a string holding and saddle pattern from other examples I've seen. It's one piece of maple with a fret saddle. I'm using slots rather than holes for holding the ball-end strings, which I think will make changing the strings an easier task. I may cut a groove along the back to hold the ball ends better in place.

And this is what it'll look like when glued. After I talk to the customer, we'll see whether it gets stained dark like the original (also maple) bridge or whether it stays a more natural tone (which I think would look pretty classy). This bridge will be on a slight (so slight you can't tell unless you look closely) angle when glued to match the original footprint.

And here's a similar conundrum in phase two: this is an old uke bridge that I've reglued to the top of this uke, but had some "structural failure" in the middle. I've glued a new piece in and will sand it, file it, and then put a topper of mahogany or some similarly dark wood over the repair to hide it. This bridge also needed a new saddle: the old one was wooden and worn down. This is one I salvaged off of a 1960s Japanese uke that I put a bone saddle in.