c.1920s/2009 Cigar Box Ukulele

One of the perks of repairing instruments is that I often have spare parts hanging around that can contribute to interesting projects. This cigar box uke was the result of a couple hours tinkering while I was tending the shop yesterday. All its parts save a strap button and tuners are from the 1920s, which gives it a very lived-in look. It turned out really nice, too! Here's a video for the sound (it's decently loud) --

The box is a thin, smallish "R.G. Dun Babies" nickel cigar box, all wood. Inside I've taken out all the paper except on the "lid" (back) to give it better tone. I haven't installed any more braces, as the top is thick enough not to require them (this was Harmony's plan with its el-cheapo ukes built in the 1950s onward... they lack braces but have a thicker top). To connect the neck with the body, I've not only glued it to the "end block" area of the box, but I've also made a banjo-style dowel that runs the length of the box internally, which also lends a lot of strength to the instrument.

The neck is off of a very smashed Sears catalog uke, probably c.1920-1930. It was all-birch, stained a grim "walnut" color, and happened to have the old learner's stickers still on the fretboard, which I thought would go quite nicely with the c-box aesthetic. Frets are polished up, of course.

Headstock.

Here was some quick thinking: most cigar box ukes are tailpiece designs simply because it's an easier build and the pressure is less likely to tear the top off the box (tension pushes down on the top rather than pulls it up and towards the neck). I, however, wanted the look of a tie/knot bridge, so what I did is anchor the strings under the strap button and have them come out of the top via small holes and run over the original knotted bridge which is lightly glued to the top. Except from this angle, to most observers, it looks like a typical uke bridge. I've installed a rather big bone saddle to squeeze some more oomph and tone out of the box.

This c-box just loves hanging out with the birdies...

Back with lid-side showing.

Note the cut-off neck. I've put a bit of varnish on the sanded heel area, but I think I might paint it and the headstock top green for fun. Not sure yet.

Pegs.

I think if I were to do this again, I might change the string load and have the tie-off for the strings on the back (lid) part of this box. I'd cut the lid top off and then hinge it at the neck side and use some holes a la Telecaster on the lid to mount the string ends, then feed them through the holes on the top. This would be a more elegant solution because you'd have easier access to the inside and the string tension when tuned up would hold the lid nice and tight (no latches needed).
Comments
cheers, John
The dowel is glued into a hole in the neck and then the neck is also glued to the side of the box at the neck join (to the bare wood of course, not over the labels). The dowel then runs the length of the box internally (starting via a drilled hole at the join) and attaches at the "end block" section of the instrument inside via a screw (that I also use to hold a strap button) from the outside. This is basically like an openback banjo pot (click for link) but with a glued neck joint. In addition I drilled a pilot hole into the neck's heel through the inside of the box and used a small screw under the dowel to hold the neck in place at the correct angle while the glue dried. This also reinforced the joint on mine because my box was so small that I didn't have a lot of surface to get a lot of glue on (which is what primarily holds a uke neck on a uke).