1941 Epiphone Coronet (Modded) Hollowbody Electric Guitar

Woah there, buddy! That's not what a US-made Epiphone Coronet from the '40s looks like! Yep, yep, that's correct. This poor old archtop must have lived a rough life because it came here with a many-decades-old refinish-to-natural (from sunburst) job, big old side cracks and impact damage, no pickups or harness, extra holes in the top, and... and... decrepit-ness.

Its owner picked it up as a husk and was expecting it needing a full overhaul and that's just what it got. After fixing everything structural, we put in a new Gibson-style wiring harness and a pair of Artec-made, Alnico II-magnet P90 pickups. While this is all lower in budget it's high in quality and sound -- do you hear this lovely old box in the video? If that's not late-'40s/early-'50s swagger, I don't know what is. Alnico II mags bring down the overly-aggressive factor of P90s but still retain that warm, mids-forward, blushy feel to them when you get into "driven only when you dig-in" territory with your amp.

As you might expect, the Epiphone neck feels great -- these are 1 5/8" at the nut and have a "medium" heft to the cut -- and it plays like a hot-rod because I set it up and adjusted it to play nice with modern 46w-10 gauges with a plain G.

Just for kicks, Epiphone made this instrument with a flat top/back rather than arched. It's thick ply for the top/back but solid wood for the sides. There's even a big pine block glued-up under the bridge area on the top -- presumably to deaden it even a bit more to cut-down on feedback. But, folks -- it'll feedback if you get too close to that amp.

Repairs included: a fret level/dress, much repair to damage along the sides and near the 3/4 position where the jack was previously installed, a new back panel install, cut/fit of two P90 pickups, a new wiring harness (3-way, 500k pots, 010 Mallory caps, endpin-style jack), recompensation of the bridge top and mod of the bridge itself, and a good setup. I put an endpin-style jack on so that the next time the cable gets snagged, the side doesn't blow-out (for the third or fourth time).

Setup notes: action is perfect with 1/16" height overall at the 12th fret, a straight neck, working truss rod, and it's strung with 46w-10 "normal" electric strings with a plain G.

Scale length: 25 1/2"
Nut width: 1 5/8"
String spacing at nut: 1 3/8"
String spacing at bridge: 2 1/8"
Body length: 19 1/8"
Lower bout width: 15 1/4"
Side depth at endpin: 3 1/2"
Top wood: ply spruce
Back & sides wood: ply maple back, solid maple sides
Bracing type: tonebar w/centerblock
Fretboard: rosewood
Bridge: rosewood, adjustable
Neck feel: slim-medium C/soft V-shape, ~10" board radius
Neck wood: mahogany

Condition notes: refinished a long time back (so it still has cool finish cracks), a number of patched/repaired cracks to the treble side, and totally unoriginal wiring harness, pickups, and whatnot. It'd been drilled to have 5 holes in the top already, so I just used them for the new layout. The knobs are, of course, replacement as well.

Biking logo! Aluminum nut! Cool.

I'll let you imagine how this gaping wound looked before. It was bad. This was simple and functional. It's on the knee-side, anyhow.