1960s Favilla C-8 Solo Classical Guitar

This is a well-loved Favilla C-8 (made in New York) classical and you can tell by the old "pickguard shadows" that it was put to use as a flamenco-style guitar for some time. That's fortuitous because its tone and handling stink of flamenco. It's got a lighter, airier, more percussive, and more out-front, punchy sound compared to your average classical. When you dig into it the sound doesn't get mushy or overly-bassy. It stays clean and even. It's a nice "folk" classical because of that, too.

Favillas are built light in general and this one is no exception -- it's loud and proud. It's also got a comfortable neck that's a little more "modern" in feel than your average Spanish, Mexican, or Japanese-made instrument of the same era. It's a little easier to get around on.

This guitar suffered a little over time by way of shrinking binding and a couple hairline cracks on the back, but it didn't really need all that much to get it playing spot-on. It's also entirely original, too.

Repairs included: a fret level/dress, minor sealing to previously-repaired hairline cracks on the back, reglue of shrunken/split binding at the waists on the top and back, reprofile of the bridge saddle area for better action height and intonation, cleaning, and setup.

Top wood: solid spruce

Back & sides wood: solid mahogany

Bracing type: fan

Bridge: rosewood

Fretboard: rosewood

Neck wood: mahogany

Action height at 12th fret: 3/32" overall (quick)
String gauges: light-gauge D'Addario EJ-43 set

Neck shape: slim-medium D

Board radius: flat

Neck relief: straight

Fret style: medium-lower

Scale length: 25 1/8"

Nut width: 2"

Body width: 14 1/4"

Body depth: 4 1/4"

Weight: 3 lbs 6 oz

Condition notes: it has "pickguard shadows" from where flamenco-style plates used to be on it. There are a few tight repaired hairline cracks on the back (pictured, with glare) and the binding is shrunken all over, but otherwise it's really in pretty good shape for its years and it's playing bang-on. I did lower the saddle a bunch and modify the bridge saddle area a bit, so it works best strung as a "ball-end" load to get better back-angle on the saddle rather than with the usual over/under "classical" stringing method which tends to pull the strings up and off the saddle. There are some dings/nicks on the sides/back of the neck and there's mild usewear throughout the finish otherwise.

It comes with: its presumably-original hard case.