1975 Guild F50 Jumbo Guitar

Overview: Who doesn't like a giant sunburst guitar with a ton of visual presence? From the big block inlays to the two-point Guild bridge to the fancy, pearl-inlaid logo at the headstock, and the extensive multi-ply binding, this thing is built to impress. It doesn't hurt that it also sounds great, too -- it's punchy, loud, and has good response throughout its range. This guitar has definitely seen some play (in evidence at the soundhole edges and below the pickguard), but it's got friendly wear and tear that makes you want to pick it up and strum away.

Repairs included: I gave it a neck reset, Max leveled and dressed the frets, Jose filled and redrilled the pinholes, and Max made a new saddle for it and set it up. It's playing spot-on and ready to go.

• Weight: 6 lbs 6 oz
• Scale length: 25 5/8"
• Nut width: 1 11/16"
• Neck shape: medium C
• Board radius: 16"
• Depth at first fret: 55/64"
• Depth at seventh fret: 61/64"
• Body width: 17"
• Body depth: 5"
• Top wood: solid spruce
• Back & sides wood: ply flamed maple
• Bracing type: x
• Bridge: ebony
• Fretboard: ebony
• Neck wood: maple
• Action height at 12th fret: 3/32” bass 1/16” treble (fast, spot-on)
• String gauges: 54w-12 lights
• Truss rod: adjustable
• Neck relief: straight
• Fret style: wide/medium-height

Condition notes: There's weather-checking to the finish. There are plenty of light to medium scratches here and there throughout. The top shows a few areas of finish chipping and/or chemical/moisture splatter. There's pickwear at the soundhole and near the pickguard's lower bit. There's a small missing piece of binding at the top of the headstock (we can replace that with single-ply just to fill it, if desired). The fretboard binding has a couple of shrink cracks. There's a little finish chipping/edgewear at the binding on the body here and there. We moved the bridge pins a little aft (the bridge plate is still A-OK) so we could fill a little hairline crack across the pins and also get the back-angle on the (now tall) saddle more appropriate. We do this on a lot of Guilds. During reset, I both glued the neck and bolted it from the inside at the neckblock. I have started doing this on all older Guilds because almost all of them have "dovetail" joints that are really more like tenon joints and so I find a little reinforcement very useful instead of relying only on glue. The endpin hole had been drilled for a pickup (which was dead) and so it's been filled and a strap button installed there.

It comes with: It has a good, hard case.

Consignor tag: MULK